Deciding when to go is a tug-of-war between the inclement and the innumerable. Although the city is something of a fixture on the tourist circuit all year round, it tends to draw a lot more people in the congenial, sunny months between July and September (snow in winter is not unheard of). Go during summer and both the views and queues will be outstanding. There's nothing like crisp Tuscan air and a 360° view of the surrounding countryside. Just as there's nothing like a knot of tourists climbing packed walkways to bring back horrible memories of malls and Christmas.
If you're looking for something a little extra while you're there, you might want to coincide your visit with the 'Medieval Days with Antique Crossbow Competition', because, really, what's a castle and three fortresses without a crossbow or two. Failing that you could wait till 3 September when the San Marinese brush off the crossbows again to celebrate National Independence Day.
Many events smell of frankincense and myrrh as the largely Catholic population get out and about on their holy days. Religion devotion, however, does not preclude a good old secular knees-up, something the San Marinese are rather partial to, particularly if it involves a crossbow and arrow.
It begins with the Epiphany on 6 January, followed by the Anniversary of the Liberation of the Republic from the Alberoni Occupation and St Agatha's Day (5 February). In a bit of unintended irony, 1 April is the Investiture of the New Regent Captain, while the Formula One Grand Prix whizzes through the city sometime in late April/early May.
May is bookended by Labour Day (1 May) and the feast of Corpus Christi (31 May). The Medieval Days with Antique Crossbows targets late July, while the other popular non-religious festival, National Independence Day (again with the crossbows already!), occurs on 3 September. From here on in until the end of the year it's pretty much all religious events: All Saints' Day, 1 November; Commemoration of the Dead, 2 November; and the Immaculate Conception, 8 December.
